My Europe Experience.
Returning from a holiday in Europe often provides fresh perspective, plumper bellies and golden tans. I, along with all of l those things in tow, had reached some alarming conclusions about the direction of our world, as everything I do is of course deeply thought about and dissected for meaning.
FRANCE
First stop, Paris. Birthplace of high fashion, gothic style architecture, home to writers, philosophers, the writers, quirky creatives; like me. As I stroll the cobbled streets, baguette in hand, cigarette in the other (really had to immerse myself in the culture) I search for my local cafe, prerequisite, flowers in all quarters, the smell of fresh crepes and coffee with lashings of cream. I don’t have to walk far. A Stereotypical Parisian couple sit out front reading the newspaper, smoking of course. Impeccably dressed, beret and all, their dog, ever so welcomed lays dutifully beside them. You can tell this is their every morning routine. Slow, carefree, composed. A sense of opulence oozes off them, even though you can tell they are your average retiree couple.
Paris doesn’t really do average.
Women sauntered past my chosen breakfast spot, children in tow, for school drop off, as if they had been groomed for a high fashion event. Not a hair out of place, full face of makeup, draped in glamourous designer threads. I bit sheepishly into my croissant as I reminisce about my own school drop off attire, which, at times could consist of my pajamas underneath a jacket and leggings, without a fleck of makeup, but an incredible sense of nobility if I muster to plump my skin with at least moisturizer. These women must have nannies and a full glam squad in their homes in the mornings I convince myself.
Only 3 days here, there is much to explore. First stop, the Louvre. Once a fortress, then to house royalty, the magnificence of a stature that grand and old is astounding. The feeling you get of being in the presence of a building 832 years old is formidable. We just don’t have 12-meter artworks of Apollo slaying the serpent Python, anywhere in our little island at the bottom of the earth that was probably the last land mass settled by humans.
The next imperial structure I wish to view is where Louis XIV selected for his new house, post leaving the Louvre.
None other than the palace of Versailles.
We cannot view it on this day as Simon Porte Jacquemus was showing his Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Models like Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner were walking the show where guests like Victoria and David Beckham were delivered to the grandiose show by boat. It was men’s fashion week and Pharrell was showcasing his first men’s collection for Louis Vuitton hosting guests like Jay Z and Beyonce, Rihanna, Jared Leto and Kim Kardashian. As someone who loves fashion and pop culture, I found it exciting to be in the city that was hosting all of these amazing events right when I was there. Did I see any celebrities? Well not as such, but I did rub shoulders with people that had one or two on their contact list, a drunken facetime did not naturally eventuate, sadly.
Strolling the streets of Paris is like nothing else. The hundreds of beautiful cafes and renaissance buildings, you walk past places where battles were won, where Kings were guillotined. where The French Revolution birthed our fundamental principles of liberal democracy. To someone that spent 5 years studying law, I found it beyond fascinating to be absorbing the birthplace of the beginnings of the modern judicial system. The rise and fall of the Roman Empire and Augustus and his rule took me right back to 7th form classics and art history. I hoped the girls would inherit my love of European history.
Yes! the Girls express their desire to view Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa!
I would like to credit their interest in the painting to their love of oil paintings of the Italian renaissance, but they probably just saw it on Tik Tok. We continued our hunt for ancient history visiting museums and art galleries. The last day in Paris I insist Disneyland, proclaiming it’s for the kid’s core memories, but wonder if it’s my own indulgence, I mean its Disneyland, the happiest place on Earth! What could possibly go wrong? Europe’s most popular tourist attraction, receiving 12 million visitors a year. After spending most the day in lines and thousands of dollars to receive only one two-minute carousal ride around a horse, I decide Disneyland is more like a hellhole than the happiest place on Earth.
As we leave Paris to fly to Nice, the very liberal foundation that Paris stands for, that we had immersed ourselves in over the last 3 days rings true. Civil unrest unfolds before us, as French police shot and killed 17-year-old Nahel Merzouk. Violent riots erupt, fires gut significant buildings, looting and hundreds of arrests. The French ability to create radical political and societal change proves unerring.
From Nice we travel to Monaco to board a boat, which will house us for the next 7 days as we experienced the French Riveria. The ports we would visit; St Tropez, Cannes and Villefranche-sur-Mer were originally humble fishing towns, turned military bases, before the glamorous tourist hotspots that host many fashion houses, luxury hotels and fine dining dinner spots. We visit some of the most famous dining spots; Club 55, La Guerite beach Club Cannes and L’Opera.
As we enjoy water sports in one of the most prestigious areas of the world, disturbingly an ocean drowning in plastic fails to conceal the devastating effects of human over consumption as plastic drifts past us, infesting this idyllic setting.
SPAIN
We opted for a traditional stone Spanish villa, white against the supported wooden beams and lavish courtyard. But even traditional Spanish stone couldn’t keep us cool in the middle of a Spanish heatwave. We are on the Balearic Island of Mallorca for 7 days where temps are reaching 38,39,40 degrees in the day and not cooling below the mid-twenties at night. We wait until 10pm at night when the earth has cooled down enough that we can comfortably eat at a restaurant, you now understand the daily siesta regime and late-night socializing. Like many things in life, you don’t really understand something until you have endured it. Conditions outside being warmer than your body temperature, day after day is unbearable. My brain is a fog, and after a day visiting remote and idyllic beaches on the ocean, I become heat stroke. Maybe the 10 sangrias before lunch didn’t help either, but it’s so hot and I needed to cool down! We visit Gran Folies beach club, Puro beach club and Cap Falco Beach, a restaurant we arrived at by a very dangerous transition from boat to inflatable boat, in rough currents that had the childhood book “Who sank the boat close” rush to my mind as we all piled in. The food in Spain was undoubtedly the best anywhere we went. For someone who LOVES good cheese, olives and cured meats, this was the place for me.
GREEK ISLANDS
Next stop Mykonos, an exclusive island in the Aegean Sea. Known for lavish beach clubs, wild party scene, and that perfect daytime backdrop of rocky terrain, aqua waters, golden sand and whitewashed homes. The town center consisting of cobblestone streets lined with shops selling Greek Nic Naks. Windmills built by the venetians in the 16th century surround the island. Classical Greek Philosophy underpins the foundation of western civilization.
“Hmmm western civilization I ponder.”
I watched influencers, with little respect for the Greek culture or natural environment pose their way through the beach clubs and cobbled streets, using the historic white buildings, and the coloured symmetry of umbrellas at Branco’s, Nammos and Spilia to get ‘the money shot’ without actually enjoying any of the surrounding serenity whatsoever. I guess they are working. But still. Such a miserable fake life appears agonizing.
With water and sewage infrastructure strained beyond capacity by the island being saturated by 250,000 tourists a week, usually only inhabit anting about 4% of that. Investors use Mykonos as a playground, with little rules and a tourist police force. At times the party vibe can feel ominous and lawless. Like the Vegas of Europe. The ocean dotted with grandiose super yachts, where billionaires anchor to explore and exploit everything Mykonos has to offer. Exclusive beach clubs offer and restaurants like Bagatelle and Scorpios offer beluga caviar prepared on Bellini’s by waiters wearing gloves, deboning fresh fish, serving sea urchins, and expensive champagne and anything else that resembles excess. Us little old kiwis in our crocs and Greek trinkets stood out like a sore thumb partying around these guys at one of the most exclusive beach clubs. The floor received more champagne than the Reims Champagne Festival. Where young royals, draped in gold and women surrounding them, partied freely, but either side stood a security guard giving away the fact, they weren’t entirely free. Of course, the disturbing amount of excess failed to impress me, but rather had me thinking about the human trafficking crises. In the last 10 years, 20,000 people have died attempting to reach Europe.
Every sunset is surely stunning beyond words, the backdrop of every photo, the naturally glowing, golden skin, the ice-cold cocktails, the ocean, the history, everything about it is magnificent, but a sadness. To me, Greece is an extremely special place. Ancient Greek underpins the entire western civilization, our language, education, art, philosophy, and what we know as democracy. Recent mining activity near Athens has produced evidence of stone tools 700,000 years ago.
We should be asking ourselves how we can respect ancient Greece?
As July is set to become the hottest on record, and we are about to depart the Greek Island, others were going up in flames. Ravaged by wildfires, the tourist islands of Rhodes and Corfu. And while they are now believed to have had help by human hand, the effects of climate change undoubtably allowed the fires to become so ferocious.
ITALY
Last stop Italy. As we drive from Milan along the deepest and largest lake in Europe, the vast backdrop of giant alps against Lake Como one cannot help but wonder deeply how many people fought battles on the ground you were driving on. How many leaders had rebelled, occupied, surrendered and conquered these lands to form the townships we now pass through so casually.
We arrive at Grand Hotel Victoria in Menaggio, where I drift off to sleep to the sound of the soft pitter patter of rain cooling the hot earth, a live pianist below, playing enchanting melodies, the curtains fluttering to the soft movements of the wind, moonlight shining in my vast vintage bedroom window, few moments have soothed my soul quite like this one. I wanted to capture and keep this moment forever. This particular hotel had renovations done creating a world class spa called Erre Spa. It reflects the ultimate relaxation experience by emulating the natural environment, complete with chronotherapy, Kneipp path, Himalayan salt room, multiple saunas, an ice room, fire room, silent room, to balance your energy and breath in perfect harmony.
We took the public ferry over to Bellagio, the village where the lake splits. Vividly colourful buildings, painted to be easily identified by local fisherman centuries ago, line the narrow-cobbled lanes. We stood and ate authentic pasta made fresh to order, possibly the greatest Carbonara of all time. As pasta is my favourite food, I was hoping to have many authentic pasta dishes like this, but sadly they are far and few in between. I went to the deli and purchased a Chianti, my favourite red wine, most delis and even bakeries in Europe sell wine for very little Euros. The smoothness of taste and natural process creates the most delightful wine. The Europeans move more slowly than we. Just like the fermentation process, everything is slower, at a more relaxed pace. Life is to be enjoyed, in good company, with good food and wine. A haze over the mammoth lake often means you can’t quite capture the raw beauty of Lake Como in a picture; something I was fond of. You have to experience the majestic feel of it for yourself.
BACK TO MILAN FOR 3 DAYS
It took 6 centuries to build the Duomo beginning in 138Os to 1960s. We stayed centrally in walking distance from the Cathedral and the Quadrilatero della moda boutiques. The neoclassical architecture housing large fashion boutiques. Time for some contemporary art, I drag my family around Fondazione Prada.
A huge storm hits the night before we leave, dramatically blowing open the hotel windows and soaking our belongings. The morning shows us crushed cars and floods, as we travel to the airport, it seems destruction and disaster has occurred in every city as we leave. The effects of climate change are unmistakably obtrusive.
CONCLUSION
I have wanted to visit Europe my entire life, after 38 years I finally did so. Suffering from anxiety most my life I was concerned about how I would manage the kids, and my unreasonable fears of aircraft failure and child snatching. As we know the world can be a scary place. But every human encounter I engaged in felt friendly and warm and safe. While I’m not under any dissolution of the corruption and crime that occurs all over the world, at times I think we are led to forget about the good strangers, the kind, the knowledgeable. A smile is understood in all languages, and I received and gave a lot of those.
5 stars, would go again. 🙂
Summer Brooks
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Absolutely loved this read and how deep and passionate you are at writing thank you Summer.